Showing posts with label voyage4. Show all posts
Showing posts with label voyage4. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Voyage #4: A Frightening Night at Anchor

Last week, we left Eolian at anchor in Friday Harbor for the night. Read on and join us for a scary sleepless night anchored off Hope Island...


The next day, we rose and dawdled, since the next planned destination was back to Blind Bay. This is a short trip, and so we had plenty of time to wait for favorable tide. We had chosen to return here because strong southerly winds were forecast, and we wanted to take advantage of the good holding ground and protection from southerly winds that this bay affords. Once again we went all the way to the back to reduce wave fetch. We didn't do any more crabbing... We had actually reached the point where we we getting tired of crab.

The wind never materialized. But the forecast continued to call for it, but now as gale force westerlies in the Straight of Juan de Fuca. We planned to return to our Hope Island anchorage for the night, since it would provide us with shelter from what would be northerlies (the wind comes in the Straight, and then splits when it reaches the mainland, going north thru the San Juans, making a southerly there, and going south thru Admiralty Inlet and Skagit Bay, appearing as a northerly there).

Having learned our lesson on the way north, we timed our exit from the Islands so that we would have a favorable tide in Guemes Channel and Swinomish Passage. This meant that we left Blind Bay at 10:00, expecting to find southerlies in Rosario Straight. Didn't happen - once again it was dead calm. In fact it looked calm all the way across the Straight of Juan de Fuca and as far south as we could see. We indeed did enjoy the tidal effects going thru Swinomish Passage, making 8 kt over the ground with the engine idling. Note to self: ALWAYS TRAVEL WITH THE TIDE.

We anchored in nearly the same spot on the south shore of Hope Island. I didn't describe this earlier, but there is a narrow finger of water 2-3 fathoms deep which runs part way along this shore, surrounded by depths of 2 feet or less. We were anchored near the east end of the "deep" channel. One other detail I didn't mention earlier was that the tidal current in the area had us facing west. We were tired and went to bed a little after dark.

At 22:30, we were awakened with the howl of wind in the rigging. It had finally arrived, and indeed we were protected from the worst of it. We were seeing 10-15 kt, with the occasional gust to 25, all out of the west. So far the plan was working, but neither of us could sleep so we sat in the saloon or the cockpit, keeping watch and talking quietly. By 23:30, we were both quite tired, and things had not changed - the wind continued at about the same strength from about the same direction, and the anchor continued to *not* move. I think we may have both dozed off.

Suddenly, Jane said, "We're loose!" I bolted to the cockpit and sure enough, we were sideways to the wind and facing the island. I started going over in my mind what we would have to do - when a boat is sideways to the wind, it is drifting, and there wasn't much deep water to the east of us. But as I watched, I realized that despite our unusual attitude, Eolian was not moving. My next thought was that we had *already* run aground... but the depth sounder showed 12 feet of water (we draw 6). I was stumped. As I sat there, groggy from the sudden awakening, Eolian shifted some more, and soon the wind was coming over the *stern* at 25 kt. Now this was truly weird! I went forward and checked: yes, we still had the anchor, and the rode was streaming aft from the now east-facing bow. Strangely, it was nearly slack most of the time.

It must have taken me an hour in my muddled state to figure it out: the tide had changed, and Eolian was ignoring the wind and trying to position herself pointing into the now westward-flowing tidal current. In effect, the wind and tide were nearly canceling each other out. Finally, I started steering her in the tidal current, and was able to reliably get her pointing either north or south, but she wouldn't stay there. It dawned on me, at last, that once she was sideways, I would need to steer *backwards* if I wanted her to go farther around. So I got her pointed at the island (the way to turn so that the anchor chain wouldn't get wrapped around the keel), and held her there until a gust pulled/pushed her a little farther around. I spun the wheel around the other way, and voila! Eolian was pointed into the wind again. Things quieted down (she's much more streamlined with the wind coming over the bow) and there was no more radical heeling and slewing around. I found that if I kept the rudder hard over to port, she was in a meta-stable situation. Eventually I became satisfied that we weren't going to go aground, and that Eolian would continue to point more or less westward, into the wind. I went back down into the saloon, where Jane and I talked quietly, and then more quietly. I think we fell asleep at about 04:30, and we awoke from our uncomfortable sleeping positions at 06:30, as light was returning to the sky.

We made preparations to get underway after a cup of coffee. The anchor was *really* hooked good - it came up with a ball of mud 2 feet in diameter which took quite a while to hose off. Nevertheless we were under way the earliest of the trip: 07:30.

Using the staysail and the mizzen, we sailed the length of Skagit Bay, but had to go to motor sailing as we made the S turn into Saratoga Passage. Finally, the wind died and we dropped the sails.

After a long day, we arrived at Everett at 16:30. Tired as we were, our timing was such that a tug with a log boom slloowwllyy moved across the entrance channel to Everett, just as we arrived. So we turned slow circles until he cleared the channel. We treated ourselves to a dinner at the 'other' Anthony's - an upscale southwestern grill. It was great food too. Interesting that we both favored this over seafood...

We slept well that night.

We left Everett at 08:15 the next morning. Sailing south from Everett was bitter-sweet. It was one of the best sails of the trip (downwind tacking in 15 kt), but it was the last. We were still tired (kind of jet-lagged), and the cool sunny day and ideal sailing conditions served to put us in a strange state of mind - sad, contemplative, content, satisfied.

We tied up in our slip at Shilshole at 15:30. I forgot to hook up the shore power cable until 17:30 - I guess that means the trip was a sucess.

I know it sure felt that way.
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Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Voyage #4: San Juan Islands - Days 7 - 9

Last week, we left Eolian tied up at the dock in Friday Harbor for the night. We had tied up there because we planned to meet the ferry the kids would be on the next day. Let's rejoin her the next morning, day 7 of the trip....


They arrived in the middle of the next morning - it was great to see them walking down the dock. By the time we were ready to leave the dock (11:30), we had 15 kt of wind pinning us there with no room forward or aft to maneuver. Our bowsprit was literally over the cockpit of the boat in front of us. We employed the help of folks on the dock and our newly acquired crew, and I released all but the bow line and backed up. This had the effect of turning the stern out toward the wind and away from the dock. I let it bounce back a little and did it again, turning us even more, and called for the bow line to be released. With a lot of pushing from the crew, we managed to leave without damaging Eolian or the boat which had been behind us. We couldn't have done it without all those involved.

As you might guess, having a strong wind nearly out of the west at 15-25 kt gave us a *wonderful* reach up San Juan Channel. We flew the main and staysail and were just about perfectly powered making 7 kt with about a 10 degree heel. While we were underway, Jane used the last of the crab we had in the refer to make a crab chowder. By the way, this was the first time we really needed to use the gimble on the stove - it worked perfectly. This was a great beginning for the kids' trip - it certainly got everyone's blood pumping. The wind carried us about halfway up Spieden Island, but eventually turned light. We enjoyed watching another boat caught in the tide rips, sailing north, but moving south with the tide... if you're not paying attention, this is an easy situation to get into. We then motor sailed the rest of the way to Stuart Island, dropping the hook in Reid Harbor at 15:40.

Reid Harbor is a perfect gunkhole - it is nearly a mile long, but quite narrow and has a nearly uniform depth of 15-25 feet. Given the holiday weekend, there were a lot of boats there, but nevertheless, we wove our way between them finally picking a spot about a third of the way in. The kids immediately got the crab ring overboard, and enthusiastically took responsibility for providing dinner for 5. It didn't take too long, and there were 7 crabs for dinner.

Another peaceful night at anchor led to another idyllic morning drinking coffee in the cockpit. We waited for wind to build, but by 12:45 we couldn't afford to wait any longer, so we weighed anchor and powered our way south to Parks Bay on the south shore of Shaw Island. At 15:30 we anchored as close in to the back of the bay as we could get, but this one is deep - we were in 50 feet of water. Late in the afternoon, Adventuress joined us in the bay, but nearer the mouth. Everything aboard this 120 foot wood schooner is kid-powered, and it was a delight to watch from across the water. Adventuress is run by a foundation which provides overnight or longer sea experiences to groups of children and adults who sign on as working crew. Although I didn't take any pictures of her in Parks Bay, I did catch her ghosting in light air off of Cypress Island earlier in the trip, and she was tied to the dock with us in Friday Harbor.

This night was not as calm as what we had had earlier. I was awakened to 20 kt blowing thru the anchorage at 06:00. I sat in the saloon and kept watch, but the anchor stayed firmly attached to the bottom. The rest of the crew woke later on their own. We had to get the kids back to Friday Harbor (across San Juan Channel) to meet the ferry, so we weighed anchor and drove across the channel. There was plenty of wind, but it didn't seem worth the effort to hoist the sails for the short trip. Again, the plan was to arrive as others were leaving, but we were not lucky this time. We ended up anchoring in the bay nearly in front of the UW Oceanography facility. We dinghied to shore (multiple trips, including an extra one because I forgot my shoes aboard), and went to the tavern just above the waterfront for a quick celebratory brew before the kids
boarded the ferry for the trip back to the mainland.

Jane and I enjoyed the rest of the afternoon walking around Friday Harbor, finally rowing back to Eolian late in the afternoon. We had a quiet evening watching the traffic, missing the kids. I think I enjoyed the night at anchor in Friday Harbor at least as much as the one tied to the dock a few days earlier. It is much quieter and more peaceful, but there is plenty to watch. Finally, it was a warm evening, and we sat in the cockpit drinking a glass of wine while we watched the lights - a much nicer view than the one on the dock.

To be continued...
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Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Voyage #4: San Juan Islands - Days 4 - 6

San Juan Islands
8/24/2001 - 9/8/2001

Last week, we left Eolian anchored at Hope Island for the night, having already experienced an engine failure under way, and a wedding. Let's rejoin her the next morning, day 4 of the trip....


We slept in and had a leisurely breakfast with coffee in the cockpit (catching the pattern yet?), and hoisted anchor at 09:00. We drove south about 2 miles to the entrance of Swinomish Passage, and turned east into the *very* narrow dredged channel, dredged right thru the place where the seagulls were walking. There are range boards, and it really pays to keep them lined up. In the middle of the channel there was 12 feet of water, but it shoaled quickly to either side of the channel center. Just when it seems that you are about to run directly into the mainland, the channel turns left into a classic 'hole in the wall', passing thru narrow high cliffs into the passage proper. This Army Corps of Engineers project provides a protected alternate passage to the wild waters of Deception Pass. We continued north, and soon saw the 'Rainbow Bridge' which frames LaConner when approaching from the south.

LaConner is a quaint little town which now is nearly completely gentrified - it is packed with antique shops, art galleries, and restaurants - even a brew pub. Tho there are many docks, we didn't stop since we had planned to anchor in the San Juans that night. Helping to make this decision was an unfavorable tidal current which continued to build thru the morning. By the time we had reached the railroad bridge at the north end of the passage, we were showing 7.5 kt indicated but struggling to make 2 kt over the ground. As we cleared into the dredged channel in Padilla bay, we were met with a 20 kt north wind with intermittent showers. Of course this slowed us even more. It *really* doesn't pay to fight the tide...

After fighting that wind (which had now built to over 25 kt), I was looking forward to a rousing reach down Guemes Channel past Anacortes, so we raised sail and turned to port. Alas, it was not to be. Apparently the strong wind existed only in Padilla bay... and we were back to the diesel again. We did keep the main and mizzen up and made some use of them and the engine together.

(Please note: These pictures are all much larger than they show here. Click on any of them to see a full-sized one - this is especially helpful with the charts)

We motor-sailed the length of Guemes Channel, passing Anacortes. At a drydock there, a Washington State ferry was out of the water. If you think these look big when floating - they are HUGE when they are dry. One prop on each end - looked like it must be at least 8 feet in diameter.

We found that Rosario Strait was calm, despite the fresh breeze just a few miles to the east. Oh well. We motored across and ducked into the Islands thru Thatcher pass. Jane had an objective to see new territory in the islands, so we didn't stop at our traditional first night place: Spencer Spit (a neat State Marine Park with lots of buoys and lots of activity) and instead turned into Lopez Sound and tucked into a little bight at the north end called Brigantine Bay. This ideal quiet little anchorage off Decatur Island is protected by small but tall Trump Island. We dropped the hook at 16:30, finally. Too tired and really too late to start, we didn't crab. After dinner we had a glass of wine and watched the sunset and the wildlife quieting for the night.

Next morning (notice I have forgotten what day it is?), we laid around reading and enjoying the wildlife - we saw seals breaching and slapping the water in some kind of seal game, and seagulls eating clams. They dig them up and then carry them aloft and drop them onto the rocks to crack them open. We were waiting for the fog and clouds to burn off. It was so calm that the each land mass in the view was paired with a perfect mirror image - absolutely stunning. We decided that morning that we need to do more exploration of Lopez Sound on our next visit to the Islands. It's a beautiful place.

We left finally at 12:45, heading for Blind Bay on the north side of Shaw Island. As with most of the passages, there was a mix of sailing and motoring in light wind. We arrived at 16:00 and proceeded to the south end of the bay. The wind was forecast to be from the south, so an anchorage in the south end of the bay would provide a little shelter in the lee of the island and would reduce the fetch for waves to nothing. Blind Bay is a large open bay with a narrow entrance and a uniform depth of 20 feet - kind of like a lake - with room for lots of boats. We put out the crab ring and immediately began to bring in Dungeness. In fact, everything we had caught on the trip was Dungeness, while down south at Shilshole and Bainbridge Island, we catch almost exclusively rock crabs. Erica says this is because of the significant difference in salinity (the south Sound is much less saline than the Islands). Although we brought in a lot of crabs, most were female (which for Dungeness cannot be kept). We did get one large male, which we saved for later. We were intrigued by a young woman who got into a small ski boat and rushed across the bay and then the channel to Orcas Island and picked up her husband from work - sounds like a neat way to commute to work, at least when the weather is nice.

Next morning we were lazy again, except that we did exercise the crab ring, finally getting two more keepers. Despite the fact that we only had a few miles to go to get to Friday Harbor (our destination for today), we left a little earlier than would seem necessary: 09:25. The plan was to arrive at Friday Harbor just when folks were leaving their slips and before the big rush begins in the afternoon. This *was* Labor Day weekend after all. The plan was to be tied to the dock (preferably) or at anchor at Friday Harbor so that we could meet Adam, Erica, and Ken (our son, daughter, and son in law) - who were coming on the ferry from the mainland the next day. Surprisingly, when we contacted the harbormaster, we were assigned a slip immediately.

The problem was that in order to tie up to the slip, we would have to accomplish a turn tighter than Eolian can make. So, I moved her into the marina and then began the slow 'spin in place' turn alternating between forward with the rudder cocked all the way over and reverse (where it doesn't matter where the rudder is positioned). Just as I got lined up for the slot, the dock crew warned me off because the next boat in line was leaving. This was good, since it would give me a larger spot to hit, but bad because I had to back out and get lined up all over again. During the entire maneuver, smaller boats continued to buzz past and all around us. At first, this was a great concern to me, but I soon realized that they were far more maneuverable than we were, so I largely ignored them. Finally, we were tied to the dock.

We refilled the water tanks and plugged into shore power. Not too long after that, we both had a shower, then we went up into town to buy groceries - three college kids were going to eat a lot!


To be continued...
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Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Voyage #4: San Juan Islands - Days 1-3

San Juan Islands
8/24/2001 - 9/8/2001


August 24,2001

We had been trying to find the time to make a long trip aboard Eolian - long being defined as more than a couple of days. Although a year ago, we actually did 4 days over the Labor Day weekend, this trip would be the first real journey - to the San Juan Islands where we have a lot of fond memories, from other boats and other times. We were allowing for 2 weeks, which made for a relaxed trip.

We didn't rush, and as a consequence, we got off the dock at 09:12 (according to the log). Not only did this make for a leisurely morning, but it also allowed us to take advantage of the tides and get a free ride north to the tune of about 1 kt. This was a good thing, since we had no wind until we got to the south end of Whidbey Island, where we shut down the engine and sailed before the south wind under jib and mizzen, going north up into Possession Sound toward Everett. When we got north of Jefferson Head (on the west) and Meadow Bay (on the east), I remarked that this was the farthest north we had been since the delivery trip down from Bellingham, nearly 4 years ago. We were definitely leaving the cruising grounds we had been enjoying for all that time, and which we had come to know like the back of our hands.

Not long after raising sail, while Eolian was sailing herself under autopilot, I was walking the decks, enjoying the sun, the wind, and the boat moving thru the water. Then I heard the splat of the bilge pump discharging onto the passing sea. It didn't run long, but it shouldn't have been running at all. So I went looking. After pulling up the third floorboard, I found the problem - there was sea water dripping off of everything. It seems that one of the sea water hoses on the engine had split, and had sprayed all over everything. The hose was still drooling too. I shut off the relevant sea cock, and cleaned up the salt water to
try to avoid corrosion problems. I removed the (short - about 3" long) hose, and went thru the ships stores looking for something to use as a replacement. Nothing aboard would match the approx 1 1/4" dia. Jane found a short piece of white plastic 1" head hose that I had bought to use as a chafe guard on the docklines, and I eventually determined that this was the best we were going to do. So I fired up the inverter (wonderful invention!) and heated up the heat gun. I softened the plastic hose enough so that I could stretch it over the pipes, but it was tricky since getting the second end on had to be done quickly, before any part of the hose cooled and hardened. I got it on almost completely and applied the hose clamps again. Starting the engine, it dripped a little, but that was all.

This was well and good, since we needed the engine to dock in Everett (16:20), where we stayed the first night. We got cleaned up, and had dinner at Anthony's (a great seafood restaurant) right on the dock, and right above Eolian.

Saturday morning we walked up to the West Marine store in the area and got a piece of replacement hose, and installed it. Then the rest of the day was spent exploring the port on foot - partly because we were slated to attend a wedding at the marina on Sunday, and we wanted to know where to go. Sunday was consumed with the wedding.

Monday, we left the dock at Everett at 08:20, and headed north up Saratoga Passage, past Camano Head on the south tip of Camano Island.

We were able to sail all the way from Everett and part way up Camano, but the wind finally gave out and we were forced to use the diesel again. We drove the rest of the way to Skagit Bay. This is a strange area... we would be motoring along in 40 feet while just a little way to starboard there were seagulls *walking* in what was for them knee deep water. You do need to pay attention to the charts... We anchored in a lovely little place close in to the south shore of Hope Island in an area with a uniform depth of 21 feet, sheltered by the island from the now-building north wind. We quickly caught 3 Dungeness crabs, upon which we feasted. Jane was tired, but I put down the dinghy and rowed the length of Hope Island and went ashore at some interesting rocks on the east tip. There I found a decorative piece of driftwood, balanced perfectly on a rock. Its precarious position fairly called out to me. That piece of driftwood lived on the aft deck for the rest of the trip.


To be continued...
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