Maintenance Spring Continues

It seems that every time we have come to the boat this spring, something has required attention.  When we arrived this past Saturday, yet another maintenance item reared its head.  When I turned on the power to the fresh water pressure pump, we were greeted with the sound of... nothing.  No water pressure.

A little bit of diagnostics disclosed that the pump was ok, but the pressure switch was not.  

Since it is nearly impossible to remove the pressure switch assembly with the pump installed without dropping important bits into the bilge, it had to come out.  Now that sounds somewhat trivial, but it is not.  Advanced Class IV boat yoga is required to get a screwdriver on the mounting screws, and the water connections are even worse.

Once removed, I disassembled the pump head and pressure switch assembly.  Delving into the switch assembly, I discovered that the micro switch which actually controls the power feed to the pump had failed mechanically.

The micro switch, shown with a thumbdrive for scale

Since we had a spare pump head aboard, I "simply" installed it and reinstalled the pump, thinking that I'd look at getting another micro switch and repairing the old pump head to keep as a spare.

Ha!

The brand new pump head would not move water.  I presume this was due to the internal flapper valves having taken a set.  It took me 3 more install/removals of the pump to confirm that the new head was not going to work.  I really dislike when new stuff fails to work out of the box.

So for the fourth time I removed the pump, and reinstalled the old pump head but with the pressure switch from the new head.

It worked.  But the pump shuts off almost immediately, telling me that I reassembled the pressure switch incorrectly (I think I know what's wrong).  

So, I took an Ibuprofin and ordered a couple new micro switches via Amazon.  I will rebuild the old pressure switch next weekend. And then I will have to employ the advanced boat yoga one more time (hopefully...) to reinstall the rebuilt pressure switch assembly.  

Then all I will have remaining is to recalibrate the pressure switch so that the pump delivers the desired pressure.  That will only require Class III boat yoga.

Hopefully.

Maintenance Spring Continues

Valves, Oh My!

Eolian's two valves which select which water tank the domestic supply is drawn from have been getting more and more difficult to turn over the years.  This spring, I decided that enough was enough...  before I broke something.  They were bronze valves, and were as old as the boat.

Here's the plumbing tree.  Water supply from the two tanks is at the top left and right.  Feed to the pressure pump is from the strainer at the very bottom.  The small pipe leading off to the left is the supply from the water maker, and the capped off grey pipe is the supply to the fresh water foot pump in the galley sink.

Before

 

 

So, in a fit of activity, I disassembled the valve tree and replaced the old valves with PVC/Teflon ball valves - they are only a little longer than the old ones and there is plenty of room for them.  Also, they open and close like a dream because the seats are Teflon.

And while I was at it, I added a valve in the galley foot pump supply and reconnected it.  (I capped this off back in 1997 because the foot pump flapper valves slowly leaked air back into the system, making the freshwater supply pump constantly cavitate.)  Now we can have the use of the foot pump by simply opening a valve.

After

 

 

Finally as a side note, I do not leave both tanks connected together because by keeping them separate, in the event of a leak the worst case scenario is that I would only lose half of my fresh water.  (I keep both diesel tanks separate for the same reason.)

Valves, Oh My!

No-no Will Be Corrected

 You probably can't tell from the photo, but that is a no-no.

You see, thru-hulls are threaded NPS (National Pipethread,Straight), so that seacocks can be threaded onto them tight against the hull, regardless of the hull thickness.  Normal pipe fittings are NPT (National Pipethread, Tapered) so the connection will bind up solidly when things are tightened up.

In the picture, you see a bronze NPT ball valve threaded onto a NPS thru hull.  This is not good, since the connection between the straight and tapered threads will only be one or two turns.  It could leak (it's not, thankfully) and it is mechanically very weak, meaning a small side thrust could disengage the threads.

This problem exists here because, tho there are 1/2" thru hulls, there are no 1/2" seacocks made - the smallest is 3/4".  So here, a normal 1/2" bronze NPT ball valve  was screwed on to the 1/2" thru hull to make up the connection.  A definite no-no.

I have thought about this off and on for years.  And recently a cosmic ray passed thru my brain and gave me the solution...

I have in my shop at home a set of pipe threading dies.  I could easily re-thread the top of the thru hull to be NPT using one of these...

So: next haul-out when the fitting is out of the water, I will bring the 1/2" NPT die to the boat and re-thread the end of the fitting to NPT, and reassemble properly.  

Problem solved!

No-no Will Be Corrected

Maintenance Spring

 No, not spring maintenance, maintenance spring.

It started back in November when one day, when we boarded the boat, the primary bilge pump was running.  Huh.  After a long afternoon of troubleshooting, I was unable to find anything wrong, so I put everything back together.  Weeks later it happened again.  I finally concluded that it had to be the float switch, even tho it seemed to check out OK.  I installed a spare that I had on board, and that took care of that.

Next, we found that the refrigeration system was not running.  Thankfully there was nothing important in either the refrigerator or the freezer.  Eolian's refrigeration uses a belt-driven compressor, powered by a 1/2 hp 12V motor.  That motor had given up the ghost.

Now, in 1978, the motor had quit similarly.  At that time, Eolian was moored at the south end of Lake Union, right in downtown Seattle.  Back then, before the huge influx of cash from Amazon et. al. gentrified the whole area, I pulled the motor and walked it to a rebuild shop that was conveniently located near the marina.  Now however, I had a great difficulty in finding a rebuild shop.  I finally settled on a local automotive parts store who claimed to have a "relationship" with a major rebuilder down in Seattle somewhere.  I dropped off the motor.  Weeks later, having heard nothing, I called and was told that it would cost more than $700 because "...there were several small things inside that were no longer available and would have to be constructed from scratch by skilled machinists."  This not being my first rodeo, I recognized bulls**t when I heard it, and asked for the motor to be returned.  When I finally got it (another long delay), I tore it down and found a badly scored commutator and completely worn out brushes.  The bearings were pristine.  I also noted that no-one had actually disassembled the motor, despite the diagnosis I had been given.

So I ordered some brushes off of eBay for $6 and built a jig to turn the commutator, using an electric drill and a file.  I don't believe that the scoring was the result of wearing out the brushes.  Instead I think it was from that original rebuild way back when.  

Home made commutator turning jig

Before and after

After reassembly and re-installation in the boat, it worked great!  But...

While checking out the installation, I discovered that the Freon charge in the system was awfully low.  Getting that next maintenance item rectified was the subject of a prior post.  Been counting?  This made the third major maintenance item.

Finally, while topping off the water in the batteries, I discovered that the exhaust hose leading from the generator to its water-lift muffler had a big bubble on it and was leaking.  So, a trip to West Marine to get hose and a tube of silicone (has anyone noticed that the silicone manufacturers seem to have colluded to stop producing resealable packaging for silicone??!?). 

Installing the hose will happen this coming weekend, presuming that something else doesn't fail before then...

And to think that I was seeing this spring as an easy one...

Maintenance Spring