Sunday, March 24, 2019

The Boaty Way of Things

As a normal part of pre-season maintenance, I change the oil in the generator.

No big deal, right?  Should take less than an hour.

Before I remove the oil via a suction tube shoved down the dipstick hole, I heat it up - this makes the process go much faster.  I heat it up by running the generator, naturally.  So I started the generator.

After a while, it shut itself down.  Not the slowly chugging of a fuel starvation issue, but sudden - like I had hit the kill switch.

I pulled up the floorboard and was rewarded with an oil-spattered view...  the generator had spat out all its oil and shut itself down on lack of oil pressure.  What a mess!  Thankfully there is a drip pan under the engine big enough to contain the entire oil charge...  and that's where it was.  The part not on the batteries, walls, floorboards, etc.

I had had this happen once before due to the failure of the oil filter gasket, so I presumed that was what had happened here.  Consequently, I purchased (dearly) a factory authorized oil filter, presuming that the aftermarket filter that I had installed last year was the culprit.  And installed it. and filled the generator with fresh oil (whew!  that was the original objective).

When I started it, I was greeted with a spray of clean oil, right in the face.

OK...  not the oil filter.

A close examination revealed that the leak was likely at the oil pipe...  "Oil pipe," you ask?  Yes.  Kohler, the manufacturer of the genset, used a Yanmar 2gmf diesel engine as a power source.  But the Yanmar design has the oil filter screwed into the block in a horizontal position.  This means that when it is removed, it dumps a cup of oil all over the place, and more particularly, it would dump it outside the drip pan under the engine.  Kohler's answer?  Relocate the oil filter to the other side of the engine where there is a tight spot where it could be mounted vertically, and over the drip pan.

The fuel pump is in that corrosion... somewhere...
But sadly, this location is exactly under the location where the exhaust elbow will drip, if it is failing (uh oh...).  Yeah.  And so add the fuel lift pump.

So far, it seems that I need to replace the feed pipe to the oil filter, the lift pump, and the exhaust elbow.  Here are the costs:

ItemCost
Lift Pump$86
Oil Pipe$209
Exhaust Elbow$767

Now I want to put this into perspective...  A fuel pump for a big block Chevrolet engine costs less than $20.  And $209 for a 12" piece of 1/4" steel tubing??  But HOLY COW!  The exhaust elbow is breathtakingly expensive for an 8" long fabricated mild steel item.  I would have to bet that if I just bought the parts to build this generator from scratch it would cost as much as the entire boat!

In the boaty way of things, the perforated oil pipe cannot be removed without disconnecting and draining the sea water feed to the generator.  And a BIG wrench.  So, since I will have the feed disconnected from the sea water pump, I might just as well change the impeller there too, right?  Add another $40 and a big hassle.  And this presumes that I can get it apart without stripping any screws...

So, the current status is this:
  • I have a new fuel pump on order.  
  • I have a water pump impeller on order.  
  • I will order the oil feed pipe once I have everything apart and haven't (hopefully) broken anything else in the process.  I don't see any alternative to this yet.

And as for the exhaust elbow?  I have a query out there with an individual who will build me one out of 316 stainless for far less than the factory mild steel one...

Salnick's Law of Recursive Maintenance

Whatever you want to do, you have to do something else first...


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14 comments:

jonathan said...

Yikes! Kudos for pushing through to get it right.
I enjoyed the post Bob. May I reference Salnick's Law of Recursive Maintenance?
Made me laugh, it is so spot on.

Jonathan
SV Odyssey

Robert Salnick said...

Absolutely Jonathan!

Jason said...

You know, there is another option....

Just get rid of all the electric power hogs that require the use of a genset to recharge your depleted batteries....then attach the genset to the wet end of your anchor rode.

As I sit here reading this, I'm reminded how this alternative option is more in line with my situation....and I like that.

Enjoy!....and let me know if you need a hand. ;-)

Robert Salnick said...

Jason -
No cold beer? Not an option!
Refrigeration is our primary power consumer (as it is on most boats), using 60-90 ah/day depending on outside temperature.
Next would be our USCG required espresso maker, but that only uses about 16 ah/day.

Kevin McNeill said...

Bob,
My earlier comment seems to have disappeared, I suggested you try local brake line makers to make you a new oil line. It may well be much cheaper.

Also, I wanted to let you know that I took your advice and I started a new blog, "Old Folks at Sea, in more ways than one" (https://tofas.home.blog/)

Kevin

Jason said...

Ouch....90 amp hours is my 48 hr total boat usage...including fridge.

Robert Salnick said...

Kevin -
That is a very good idea. But I am considering just removing the whole remote oil filter thing and installing the oil filter where Yanmar intended it to be...

Robert Salnick said...

Jason -

Vestigal freezer? Ours is probably 4 cu ft, and the reefer is close to 10 cu ft...

Robert Salnick said...

Kevin -
That's an excellent suggestion! I will have to do some checking - could even be flex lines. I am also considering just removing the stuff Kohler did to the Yanmar engine to relocate the oil filter, and installing the oil filter in Yanmar's original location... That would be a zero cost option.

Kevin McNeill said...

Zero cost but much frustration at oil change time when the filter drips into the bilge. I have found that the dog poop bags, which are free around our marina, slip right over the oil filter, no drippage

Robert Salnick said...

Kevin -
Good suggestion!
I am already acquainted with the problem of a horizontal oil filter - the oil filter on our Perkins 4-236 main engine is also horizontal. I've been dismounting it in/over a plastic grocery bag (actually a bag in a bag). Usually I spill no more than a drop, if that.
For the genset I still need to take a long look at it and decide whether the access to the original oil filter location will work. Good chance that it will be no worse than the current location, where I have to disassemble part of my battery bank to get at the current filter location.

Steve Hulsizer said...

I have same problem on my Kubota, plus a very tight nest the rail for the hydraulic pump mount. To change the filter, I loosen the filter only enough so that I can rotate the filter by hand, then use a small tipped phillips head screw driver to pierce the filter near the bottom in two places and drain it into a ziplock bag.

Steve Hulsizer, Osprey

Robert Salnick said...

Thanks for the tip Steve -
So Which hole do you punch first - the top or the bottom?

bob

Rick said...

If it weren't for boat maintenance issues, what would we do with our spare time and money (spare money?!).

The fun part is finding a way to fix expensive problems at low cost! I love it when I beat the yacht/marine mark-up.

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