Showing posts with label Gulf Islands. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gulf Islands. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Finally.

Delayed post from Saturday, 7/3
We are in Montague Harbor. Summer has knocked on the door. It is late in the day and the sun is shining at a shallow angle, glancing off the water and making a light show on the ceiling of the cabin. What you can't see in this picture is that the pattern is constantly rippling, changing.

And, tonight, I can finally declare that I have reached an important mental state: VACATION. Yes, it has been nearly a week since we left Seattle, but perhaps that says how tightly wound I had become (I think Jane would agree with that assessment).

We had a wonderful sail over here from Ganges. After using the engine to get out of the harbor, directly upwind, we made a left turn and unfurled the sails into a spectacular reach, making 6.5 kt. As we made it thru Captain's Passage, the wind fell off, and our speed dropped correspondingly, but finally, finally, that was OK with me. I checked with myself - I was at peace - I felt no urge to meet some self-imposed schedule. So we kept sailing at falling speeds. We sailed the entire way into Montague Harbor, only starting the engine to do the harbor maneuvering to deploy the anchor.

We had planned to visit the restaurant at the marina tonite, but it turns out that reservations are required, and this is Canada Day weekend... So we enjoyed happy hour on the deck with a view that cannot be topped from any restaurant on shore.
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Saturday, July 3, 2010

Off the grid

Sometime today we will leave Ganges and head over to Montague. Our wide-spread Wi-Fi provider does not have a presence there, so we probably will be off the grid for awhile.

We had a wonderful day yesterday, off the boat for the first time since Mystery Bay. We had breakfast (well, almost lunch) at the Tree House Cafe - a very unique and charming outdoor cafe positioned, oddly enough, right under a tree. If you should ever find yourself in Ganges, this is a not-to-miss place.

After brunch, we did some shopping, visiting a used book store (we seem to haunt these, don't we). I got a couple of interesting volumes there on NW coast history - the second volume of the books David Conover wrote about his life on Wallace Island, and one called "Bits and Pieces - Tales Told at Greenwoods," which sounded intriguing.

Next we visited Mouat's, a hardware/marine supply/housewares store that dominates the waterfront and got a repair device for the washdown hose (taking us back to now 1 failure for the cruise), and a glass slug that I just couldn't resist.

I also bought 10 gallons of diesel for $4.83/gal (CN). Wow.

We replenished the fresh veggies and then back out to the boat.
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Friday, July 2, 2010

Up close and personal

We're finding little "things" on the deck this morning.

Day before yesterday, when we anchored here in Ganges, we ended up with a prime spot. Apparently we arrived not long after several boats left. We are far enough to the dock to allow the seemingly continuous series of sea planes to get to the dock, but close enough to discourage anyone from anchoring between us and the dock. And outside of us is a "work in progress" wooden tug hanging on a rusty cable anchor rode. Everyone is giving him a wide berth.

But yesterday afternoon, when the large orange official-looking Marine Safety boat came up to us, I thought they were going to ask us to move. Not so. They informed us that there were going to be fireworks here in the evening, and that we should tell others who might be tempted to anchor inside of us that they would be in harm's way.

Canada Day fireworks! Wow! And it turns out that we got *the* front-row seat.
Like just about everybody, we have been to many fireworks displays - but not like this. As it got dark, Jane and I were out in the cockpit, trying to figure out where they would be shot from. And we remarked at all the people standing on the docks, also waiting for things to get going.

There was a rousing rendition of "O Canada!" from loudspeakers on the dock (and the entire harbor joined in!), and then the first rocket (OK, technically they are mortars) went up... from the dock! When it exploded it was directly above us - I literally ducked. Talk about impressive... Yes, I watched to make sure that nothing burning landed on us (setting the furled sails on fire would have ruined our evening); nothing ever did. These guys knew exactly what they were doing. There was the occasional "tink" as some piece of burned-out casing landed, but they were cool.

It was the most intimate encounter with large fireworks I have ever had. Well, except for the time when I was probably 8 years old and we went to see the fireworks at Arlington Heights, Ill. Something went wrong with one of the rockets, and it landed in the stockpile of unfired munitions. While running for our lives, I looked over my shoulder at the most impressive ground display I will ever see.
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Wednesday, June 30, 2010

A little slice of Heaven

We are here, in Ganges, Saltspring Island, BC. We left after lunch and got here at about 4 PM, and fortuitously were able to anchor right near the town dock.

Jane just said that we have a little slice of heaven here. The sun is still shining, it is warm, we had BBQ and grilled corn on the cob for dinner, and now as the evening sets, the water is calm like a ripply mirror and there is a live band somewhere on shore playing jazz.

And I am down below catching up on the blog - there are a couple of days to do, and I am working on them.

But for now, I am going up in the cockpit to watch the evening fall and listen to the music.
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Poetry in cove


6/30

Tuesday morning, we rose late. Heading to Canada, the tide would be against us until the afternoon, so there was no reason to force ourselves out of our comfy warm covers prematurely. We breakfasted on the last of our blueberries, since we couldn't take them into Canada (?), and spent the morning reading (me) and knitting (Jane).

After lunch, we dug out our Canadian courtesy flag and got the ship's papers ready, and hoisted anchor. Unfortunately, the anchor wash-down hose failed, after the anchor was aboard. We'll have to get a new one at Ganges when we get there. The trip failure count now is back to 2.

Going across Boundary Passage is always interesting. Aside from it being an international boundary, it is also a major junction between the waters in the Strait of Georgia and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. A lot of water flows thru there every tidal cycle. Consequently, there are lots of tide rips, overfalls, boils, and the charts are marked with foreboding "swirls" (the Norwegian word is "maelstrom") all over the place. The direct path between Parks Bay and Bedwell Harbor (South Pender Island) passes right thru the worst of these. We altered that path, going north of Flattop Island.

It was an interesting day - for most of it, we had the wind on our port quarter, and flew the yankee by itself. At one point we were seeing 15 kt relative wind and were doing 7.5 kt over the ground. Thankfully this was just when we were trying to stem the south-flowing current at Flattop Island. But eventually, the wind faded and we were forced to start up the diesel.

After clearing customs, we anchored in Poet's Cove, not far from a spot others remember well. Not wanting to pay the exorbitant international roaming fees, we both have our cell phones turned off. And there is no internet service available here (doesn't BBX have a site at Bedwell? I'll just jump on line and check. No - wait...). Wow - three days without a connection - how long will it be before the twitching stops? Before I don't feel the need to check my email, facebook, etc. every 30 seconds?

This morning it is downright chilly. In the cockpit, inside the full enclosure, the thermometer reads 46°, and the cabin was 56° before I lit the Dickenson. But it is a bright sunny morning, and I am sure it will warm up (he says bravely). Interestingly, the Poet's Cove anchorage is hard under a high cliff which is shading the anchorage, so it may be a while before that sun actually shines on us.

This morning there are platoons of these guys patrolling between the boats, keeping things orderly - entirely appropriate since we are in their country!

And as were leaving the harbor, we saw something sad and almost a little comical . There was a bald eagle, in the water. I guess he dove on a fish and misjudged and got too far into the water. He was slowly making his way to shore with a kind of slow overhand (overwing?) crawl. There was a kayak with two folks in it debating whether to close in and help. I didn't get any pictures because we were too busy getting under way, and I don't know how it all turned out.

I'll bet the eagle was embarrassed.
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