Showing posts with label narrowboats. Show all posts
Showing posts with label narrowboats. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 6, 2015

Narrowboats!

Astute regular readers of this blog may have noticed that nothing was posted here for the last three weeks.  To all 6 of you, I apologize.  The reason for the hiatus was that we travelled to the United Kingdom on a holiday trip.  And the title gives it away...  for one of those weeks we tooled up and down the Shropshire Union canal in our very own (rented) narrowboat:  nb Phantasy.

nb Phantasy
Ah, but I am getting ahead of myself.  Before we went out on our own, our friends Kath & Rob took us on an overnite tutorial cruise on Kath's boat, nb BobcatBobcat, at 58 feet long, is 20 feet longer than Phantasy... but still only 7 feet wide (on the outside; 6 feet wide on the inside).

nb Bobcat; inside & out
Aside from the cruise itself, Kath took us thru the etiquette of canal life and gave us a hands-on tutorial on the operation of locks.  And then after we shared a Thai dinner in Stone, they gave us their bed in the master cabin - what wonderful hosts! 

The Boat

Nb Phantasy has dimensions of 38 feet LOA and 7 feet beam, and is powered by a 3-cylinder diesel engine.  Starting from the bow, she has an open foredeck, a dinette which makes into a small double bed, a nice galley, a head, the engine area, and finally an open stern where the helmsman stands.  There is no shelter for the helmsman in inclement weather, an arrangement shared by almost all the narrowboats.  Pretty basic compared to nb Bobcat or nb Snowgoose, but we were not living aboard, just camping aboard for a week.  She worked out well for us.

Looking aft

Looking forward

The heat aboard was hot water (you can see the white flat panel radiators on the lower walls), supplied by the engine.  When the engine was not running, a very compact propane fired hot water heater and circulating pump took care of business.  I was very intrigued by this heater:


It was located in the head, smack next to the shower and was only six or seven inches wide, by about five feet tall.  I do not know how deep it ran into the wall.  It was manufactured by a Swedish company called Alde, although this appears to have been an earlier model.  In operation it was absolutely silent.

The Scenery

Just a few pictures showing what it is like on the canals...




Jane, the lock master

Lessons Learned

Here are the lessons learned by this open-water sailor when transitioning to  canal boating:
  • Yup, it really is like that. This is civilized, low key boating.  Nobody is in a rush, you don't travel fast (less than 4 kt, and at "tick over" when passing moored boats - see below).  And indeed, you don't get going early or travel late.  In fact, most boats do not have running lites, and unofficial hours on the canal are 08:00 - 20:00.  We travelled only from village to village, stopping for the pubs of course.

    And like boaters everywhere, everyone was friendly - from the boats passing in the opposite direction to those we met in the pubs - like Andy and Liz of nb Snowgoose, who we met in The White Swan at Brewood and who later invited us aboard their boat when they moored up in front of us at Gnosall:
    Liz and Andy, nb Snowgoose

  • The rudders on narrowboats are unbalanced.  You really need to lean into the tiller to turn the boat.
  • As you might expect, the canals are shoal at the edges. 
  • Steering is strange near the edges - it is as if the edge is trying suck you in
  • Probably the biggest unexpected thing, and what could likely be the cause of many of the others noted here, is that the boat is large with respect to the canal.  This means that it is not operating in free water like every other boat I have ever been on.  Instead, because the boat occupies a significant portion of the cross section of the canal, it is pushing water ahead of it as it moves.  This water then flows back along the sides of the boat, making it look like you are operating in a current.
  • The passages under the bridges are almost unbelievably narrow, leaving only a few inches on either side of the boat.  The plug flow that I described above is magnified greatly when passing under a bridge, slowing the boat dramatically, and making steering almost completely ineffective until you get clear of the bridge. 
  • As you pass moored boats, they are all pushed around by the plug of water you are pushing ahead of yourself... and then sucked back the other way after you pass.  This is why it is necessary to slow down to idle when passing moored boats.
  • The canals are shallow (narrowboats rarely draw much more than 24").  And they are silted up.  As boats go by, the prop wash stirs up the silt, but since there is virtually no flow in the canal, this just settles back out, to be stirred up again by the next boat.
Would we do it again?  You bet.  The route we chose this time was constrained by a number of factors, but still had us going thru a tunnel (81 yards long), over an aqueduct, and thru a single set of locks.  And it took us to the pubs in the villages of Gnosall, Wheaton Aston and Brewood.

What would we change?  Not much.  More time would be nice.  And a few more locks would be OK too.

And a few more pubs, of course.



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Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Blowin' a Hoolie

"The bee's knees", "blowin' a hoolie", and "earlier than sparrow fart".

Kath, nb Bobcat
What do these phrases have in common?  They (and several others) were all uttered by Kath of nb Bobcat.

We had the distinct pleasure of hosting Kath and Rob both at our home on Camano and aboard (however briefly) Eolian this past weekend.  They were on a trip to British Columbia and took the time to journey down to the USA to be with us for a couple of brief days.

It has been said that the Americans and the British are peoples separated by a common language.  There is some truth to this, as the common usage for a number of items is different in surprising ways - for example, you readers in the UK will understand what I mean when I announced that I was pulling an old pair of pants out of the console of our car.  My American readers, on the other hand, will have no idea what the consternation was...

Rob, demonstrating  a proper tea ceremony
Kath and Rob are wonderful, down-to-earth people.  They too are splitting their time between house and boat:  Rob's house (which incidentally houses a surprising number of classic Ducati motorcycles) and narrow boat Bobcat - 58' LOA x 7' beam x 19" draft.  Between the marine connection and the classic motor vehicles, we found that we had no shortage of things to talk about.

In fact, the brief time we had together was simply not enough.  I wish, for example, that it had not been "blowin' a hoolie", so that we could have taken Eolian off the dock - and that we had had enough time to make it for a couple of days.  Ah well.

Kath and Rob have offered to return the favor (favour?), and we are giving this thoughtful consideration.  I have written before about the entirely civilized way narrow boating is done, and I must confess that there is a serious attraction...

 
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Thursday, May 13, 2010

And now, for something completely different...



A draft horse can pull a 1000 lb wagon on a level, hard road.

A draft horse can pull 50-60 times that on water: 50,000 - 60,000 lb.

You need to improve the transportation infrastructure in England to move coal and other materials into London for manufacturing and food to feed the inhabitants.  Do you build roads, or do you build canals?

In the 18th century, this was an easy decision: You built canals.

In the 19th century, despite the rise of steam power, canals were still a viable solution, partly because of existence of the functional 18th century infrastructure. And in fact, the British canals were used commercially thru WWII.

England is not a particularly flat country, so the canal system is riddled with locks - hundreds of locks, all manually operated, by the boatmen themselves. To minimize expense, the canals were not made wide. But the controlling dimensions in the canal system are the sizes of the lock chambers: 7' x 72'. These constraints spawned an unusual class of boat: the Narrowboat.

The British canals, once a mix of private- and government-owned, have been nationalized. Because of that and their usage into the 1950's, they are in remarkably good shape, and they are getting better. The narrowboats have over 2200 miles of waterways to explore. An excellent online reference, which uses Google Maps so you can zoom in and see the individual boats, locks, etc, can be found here.

Commercial traffic on the British canal system has all but disappeared, but the boating traffic is as high as ever - once working craft, the narrowboats have been embraced as recreational vessels. And like everywhere else, when you mix people and boats, you always get one common factor: the Liveaboard.

Here is a stellar example: Narrowboat Caxton:
NB Caxton is 68' long and 6'10" wide. Narrowboats are flat bottomed; Caxton draws approximately 22" and weighs 18 tons. She is constructed from steel, with a 10mm base plate, 6mm sides and 5mm cabin, and is powered by a Beta 43 diesel engine. With those dimensions, you will not be surprised to hear she has a bow thruster, although not all narrowboats do.

Despite their unfamiliar (to us) dimensions, much of the design of narrowboats will be familiar to readers of this blog - they need to solve many of the same problems.  So solar panels, heads, propane systems, batteries, inverters are all common subjects.  But foreign to us will be posts about weed hatches, tunnel lights, cratch boards and more.

To this west coast US sailor, narrowboating in England is a very different kind of boating. I have been following several of the narrowboating blogs (some listed below), and I think I can summarize the daily activites to be something like this:
  • Rise promptly at 09:00
  • Have a leisurely breakfast; go for a romp with the dogs
  • Pull pins (narrowboats are usually moored to steel pins which they drive into the soft banks of the canals) and putt 3 or 4 miles. (Note: this will inevitably involve passing thru several locks, or perhaps a tunnel, or even over an aqueduct - a bridge for boats.)
  • Moor up, and go for a romp with the dogs
  • Walk up into the local village and find a pub.
  • Lather, rinse, repeat.
On second thought, that does sound kind of familiar. Except for the bit with the steel pins.

If you have ever taken a canoe or kayak trip on a river, you will probably have noted that, except in the most urban of environments, the world at stream- or creek-level is remarkably untouched. In the case of the canals, this effect is even more pronounced, since the canals now are all government owned. The views of the countryside and the ancient bridges along your path are bucolic and spectacular at the same time. (The pictures you see here were taken by Leslie on NB Caxton, who has an artist's eye and has given me permission to display them here.)

Because of the way the licensing in England works, boats which do not have a permanent moorage are constrained to stay no more than 14 days in any one spot. So there is a lot of movement, all year long.

Narrowboaters are prolific bloggers.  Here are some I have been following:
Narrowboat bloggers make a custom of the blogroll - the links there will lead you thru a seemingly infinite universe of narrowboating.  And there seems to be an ongoing contest amongst the narrowboaters as to who has the most popular website - many feature the "UK Waterways Site Rank" badge, which shows their hit ranking day by day.

If you are curious about how the narrowboats are built and fitted out, then I recommend you read thru NB Bobcat's site.  It is all about the construction of NB Bobcat, which was just completed on May 4.

Narrowboating very much is something completely different...  and intriguing to those of us moored in deep salt water, precisely because it is so different.
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